Chatting with New York’s best pastry chef

I started working at Cool World because of

Amanda Perdomo

’s desserts. On the hunt for a line cook job, I swung by this new (horribly named) spot in Greenpoint late on a Friday for fries and dessert. The fries were perfectly seasoned and the Floating Island — with peaches, torched meringue and tarragon — knocked me out. Something special was happening here.

Over the next year, I learned a ton from Amanda, who has worked at Wildair, Del Posto, Roman’s, Kellogg’s and is now relaunching JR & Son. She showed me pure technique. But more than anything she demonstrated how a kitchen should operate. We chatted about that, her stellar vegan jello, her year as a savory cook and the best dessert program in New York City.

Vegan jello journey

It was one of the hardest things I think I've ever developed. I don't think I've ever spent so long trying to develop something like that. It was so much fun, actually. There came a point where the team at HAGS saw me try to do this like maybe 20 times. I think I worked on that jello for two weeks. And everyone started chiming in, like, what if you did this? What if you did that? That's the most fun part of working with a team in any kitchen is where you hit this point of everyone's bouncing ideas off each other because everyone's really interested in making this thing happen.

Prioritizing practicality vs. virality

I try really hard not to think of [making a viral dessert]. And I mostly think about practicality and what makes sense for the person who has to make it and for the person who has to plate it. Sure, a million components might look cool in a photograph, but in reality, it isn't sustainable and it's not the way that I really like to eat. So for me, I'm mostly like off top. The first thing that I'm thinking of is practicality, sustainability, and also like what's going to make sense on the pickup. when you're plating 10 of these at once.

Diner misconceptions

Even though the pickups at Kellogg's and the diner-style menu were quite simple and straightforward, there are so many nuances to it as far as making those items and those components that I think people think are seemingly simple because it is something like a banana split or the passion fruit pie or even just a pretzel salad. There's so much care that are put into those components, especially when I'm making them, because I'm just tasting every single thing. I'm checking the way things come out of the oven. Like, are they perfectly crisp? Are they perfectly seasoned? Is this tart enough? Is it too sweet?

Camaraderie in the kitchen

I could get a lump in my throat just talking about it. Like what you're describing, those are the moments that make everything worth it. Because this is so not an easy job and it's not an easy industry to be in. You're not making a lot of money. You're constantly susceptible to hurting yourself. You're on your feet all day. It's like, if you don't enjoy those moments of like camaraderie and moments with your team, it's like, none of it is worth it.