Seoul rips
All my recs
Due to some time zone hopping, my body has been experiencing Saturday for about 36 hours, almost enough time to come down off the high of a week in Seoul.
Before the trip, I told friends it felt likely this would be the only time I visit the Korean capital. I already take that back. Seoul was inviting right away, accessible and wonderful despite being more populous than New York with nearly three times the population density. If more of the coffee shops opened before 11:30am, I might already have a return booked.
I met up with some friends who stopped in Seoul for a week before popping over to Japan. This kept coming up as a common move. It sounds smart. But Seoul stands up well on its own for a weeklong adventure. You can’t see it all, of course. You’re consistently reminded of the city’s enormity. But you can get a good grasp, especially through a steady stream of amazing meals.
I’ve got a piece coming later in the week on how the modern dining scene in Seoul has me rethinking what’s going on right now in LA and New York. But to start here are my top recs — sorted into bangers & jams, ranked mostly in order — for a seriously impressive food city, including a personal top-five restaurant of all time, Seoul’s version of Wildair, pastries, barbecue and shopping.
Bangers
Anjumaeul: On a good trip, I leave with one obsession. A restaurant that rewires my brain a bit. One I know I’ll return to every time I visit. In Seoul that was Anjumauel, a souped up Found Oyster of sorts. They move and update small whiteboards around about 10 tables, highlighting the day’s seafood that quickly sells out. The sweet shrimp sashimi, clam pancake and herring roe bibimbap were among my favorite things I ate all week. It’s a tiny spot with a lovely owner. Most tables linger for up to three hours drinking the day away, making the queue situation … more than a little insane. (I did find a bit of a hack for getting in. If you’re a paid subscriber visiting, HMU). After ending the year a bit frustrated with the state of dining out, Anjumaeul was invigorating.